Veterans Day

2016-lm-11-11

Surf: 8.2 ft at 12.9 s from the WNW at 297°

This week has been a bit busy, and a bit too big and wild to surf. After the election and work, it was nice to have a medium sized surf session. It was crowded and closed out, but there were still plenty of fun waves. I felt like I was surfing sloppily, but somehow making it work. Lots of wobbling into a wave, lots of having to cut back for the closeout. It was a nice day. I hope we have some more nice days in between the big, threatening swells.