Surf: 10.2 ft at 12.9 s from the W at 281°. Outgoing. Variable winds.
I got sick right after surfing last time and was down for a full week. Ugh. I almost didn’t paddle out today as there was some size and I wasn’t sure I was totally recovered. Thankfully things looked fine enough from the beach.
The long lulls gave me plenty of time to rest, but meant a low number of waves. Thankfully they were all fun, punchy waves with lots of room to sneak up on the board.
A little crowded, but not too bad!
Emily snapped a shot of Chris and I. So nice running into you and Max!
