Month: November 2016

Posted on

Thanksgiving

2016-lm-11-24a

Surf: 10.2 ft at 12.9 s from the W at 281°. Outgoing. Variable winds.

I got sick right after surfing last time and was down for a full week. Ugh. I almost didn’t paddle out today as there was some size and I wasn’t sure I was totally recovered. Thankfully things looked fine enough from the beach.

The long lulls gave me plenty of time to rest, but meant a low number of waves. Thankfully they were all fun, punchy waves with lots of room to sneak up on the board.

A little crowded, but not too bad!

Emily snapped a shot of Chris and I. So nice running into you and Max!

2016-lm-11-24b

Posted on

Veterans Day

2016-lm-11-11

Surf: 8.2 ft at 12.9 s from the WNW at 297°

This week has been a bit busy, and a bit too big and wild to surf. After the election and work, it was nice to have a medium sized surf session. It was crowded and closed out, but there were still plenty of fun waves. I felt like I was surfing sloppily, but somehow making it work. Lots of wobbling into a wave, lots of having to cut back for the closeout. It was a nice day. I hope we have some more nice days in between the big, threatening swells.

Posted on

More reasonable

2016-lm-11-07

Surf: 6.9 ft at 12.9 s from the WNW at 287°

Today was better. Still large, but not quite as beefy. There was a bit more beach open to surf, so we surfed it. Nice to see folks out.

 

Posted on

Too big, too rough

2016-lm-11-06a

Surf: 11.5 ft at 16.0 s from the W at 276°

Today was a bit more what I was expecting to see yesterday. Large sets, churning foam, and poor visibility. My shoulder’s been hurting so I opeted to paint on the beach while Chris went out. He had fun. Got whomped plenty, too. I just wasn’t up for it. But there was hardly any wind and it was remarkably warm. Perfect conditions for sitting on the beach with my sketchbook.

2016-lm-11-06b

2016-lm-11-06c

 

 

Posted on

Winter Swell

2016-lm-11-05

Surf: 9.8 ft at 13.8 s from the WNW at 290°

The forecast was stacked with big swell after big swell. I wanted to get out, have been worried it’d be too big. Today looked a little rough and a little thumping, but turned out to be nice enough. Lots of chop. Plenty of waves. The heart is back on the hillside, which is nice. That with some warm air made for a nice late afternoon surf.