Surf: 4.9 ft at 12.1 s from the W at 281°. Incoming. Winds out of the S.
Yeeeew that was fun. If there’s only one thing this beach does well, it’s these conditions.
I brought a board and an extra suit for Boris. We got down to the lot before the sun was even up. I’m always nervous taking friends who don’t surf around here. I want it to be fun and easy. I knew the winds would be blowing, but it was hard to tell if the suf would be big and closed out, or fun. I could see the little peelers even in the dark. YESSSSS.
I found myself a nice right and surfed and surfed and surfed. I snapped my leash string, I surfed to hard. As I was threading a new one, waves were just rolling in. Oh man, it was hard to be patient and get the new string in when all I wanted to do was get back out there.
Once I had my leash back on, I paddled out again. It was a beast to stay in place and totally worth the paddle. Oh man was that right fun. It had some steep drops but the wind keep things open and all I had to do was hold on and trim. It was a blast. Great for walking up, great for swooping along. Yeeeeee.
Boris had a good time, too! He and Chris wound up all the way at the north end and it sounded like there were plenty of waves up there.
It sounds like we’ll have a pretty active storm season this winter. I hope we get more days like this.