Surf: 3.9 ft at 18.2 s from the SW at 221°. High tide.
Friday night we rolled in on the late side. The surf was looking smooth, but large and closed out. I will admit the size was the biggest thing I was nervous about on the whole trip. The San Onofre bluffs remind me of Montara. Sure it’s a gentler, warmer Montara, but I didn’t want to see what her bad side looked like. I’d been out there at just about head high and it was intimidating looking but gentle. At double over head, I was thinking gentle might no longer be an option. In my mind I kept seeing double overhead ocean beach or double overhead pleasure point and all the carnage that comes with. I spent most of the time leading up to the trip worrying about just this thing. I wanted to participate in the Miscreant Melee, but I did not want to get thrashed about just to say I did it.
Saturday morning we walked down the trail to see if there was anything rideable. From the cliffs it was beautiful. Lines to the horizon and it looked pretty glassy. The only problem? They were mile-2 mile long closeouts. Ouch. Some of the Miscreants were still out, hurling themselves into closeouts. They were all smiling when they got out, but I passed and opted to catch up with folks on land instead.
By the time Saturday evening came around, I said I’d be willing to go look at Old Man’s. I was still not sold on this whole big swell idea, but some campmates near us asked to join so I figured I’d wind up in the water anyway.
On positive note, we can convert the van back to passenger mode super fast! Since the seats are under the bed, we just rolled up the bed and poof, seats!
The surf however, was bumpy and still pretty large. I got a couple waves, but spent a lot of the session dodging well overhead waves I did not want any part of. Chris got a few good ones, but we cut the session short when his leash rope snapped.
It was nice to watch the sunset from Old Man’s. What a beautiful spot. The surf culture, the waves, the cliffs, it’s all pretty magical. Hoping it’s smaller tomorrow so I can get a longer, less stressed out session in.
Friday evening, when the buoys were 4.6 ft at 20.0 s from the SW at 218°
Saturda morning: 4.6 ft at 18.2 s from the SW at 222° on the low tide. Lots of surf fishermen out.