Surf: 4.6 ft at 17.4 s from the W at 273°. Outgoing tide. NE wind.
I’d said I wasn’t going to surf this week because I didn’t want to get sunburned or bruised up before the wedding, but I wound up with three really lovely sessions this week and only a little sunburn and a few small bruises.
Today’s session was a little closed out and occassionally sideshore, but wow, can’t beat that weather. To keep from getting roasted I slathered myself in thick hippie surf sunblock. It’s basically mud and zinc. I didn’t want to wear my normal sunblock because it causes my skin to break out, but the hippie sunblock has burned me before. My solution was to layer it on so thick I looked like a muddy ghost out in the water. I think it worked. I’m not any more sunburnt than yesterday.
The waves were tricky due to all the people, but we managed to make the most of it. I finally got one great ride in. It was a right whene verything had been going left and it gave me a nice long ride with plenty of time to try and walk up. I’d told Chris “one or two more” but after that one I thought “well, I’m not going to do better today.”
On the way back, there was a swarms of thousands of ladybugs. I’ve never seen that many, even having released them in my garden a few times. Crazy!