Occasional Waves

Surf: 6.9 ft at 8.3 s from the WNW at 287°.

The surf looked less than great when I rolled up. It was ragged and a little jumbled. We made it work, though. There was a spot that somehow turned into a wave or two, but man, when it wasn’t it was funky, closed out, and not great.

The first wave I got, however, was a long, peppy right that let me walk up, cut back, and surf it like a real wave. Wow! I didn’t expect that at all. Things improved as the wind died down and the tide changed. Hoping it will be better tomorrow.

We took my car today as Chris’s was out of commission. Thankfully I’ve gotten the manual lock working more smoothly. Someday car manufacturers will figure out that surfers need to get in and out of their cars, too.