Month: March 2016

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Long Session

2016-SCSH-03-26

Surf: 8.5 ft at 12.9 s from the NW at 324°. High and outgoing tide.

Whew! I surfed three hours today. Blam was in town and wanted to get in a few waves. We headed south and, which the swell had come down a bit, there were waves to be found. While the hook was pretty packed, a nearby peak was wide open. Eventually we got the spot to ourself and stayed out till I was sunburnt and exhausted.

I’ve been surfing Bo so much that I’d forgotten what it’s like to have a nice zippy long wave. I got some steps real far up and couple cutbacks. It was a really nice day and great to see Blam and Robert.

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Bing

2016-LM-03-20.jpg

Surf: 5.9 ft at 12.9 s from the WNW at 292°. Outgoing tide. South Wind.

I had the chance to take out Chris’s 9’6 Bing Gold Standard.

The south winds were blowing and there were a few waves out there so it was worth paddling out into light rain showers.

I’ve ridden that Bing before, but I think this is the first time since I got my Ashley. It’s only an inch longer, but the thing is heavier than my Ashley and the rails are pretty different. I paired it in with an 11′ fin with very little rake. The first wave I caught I though “oh man, this beast isn’t going to turn for anything!” Thankfully after a few more waves, it started to feel a little more natural.

It still sort of felt like the first draw wall all the board, then once I was through the top turn, I could steer again. I got going pretty fast with all that weight and walked way up the board. Navigating the crowd was a challenge, but overall pretty fun. Lots of steely grey landscape to stare at waiting for waves. 🙂

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Catching up

2016-LM-03-18

Surf: 3.9 ft at 10.0 s from the WNW at 286°. High tide, outgoing.

The swell came down and the wind came up, but I wad looking for some exercise and figured I could make the most of it. Sure enough, there was a wave or two out there. I had at least one where I got way way up on the nose, despite the chop.

About halfway through the session, I hear someone yelling my name. It was Veronica! 😀 We haven’t surfed together since way back when I learned and I can’t remember the last time I saw here. It was really great to catch up and I’m so glad she’s still surfing.

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Taking a break

2016-LM-03-17

Surf: 5.9 ft at 12.1 s from the W at 271°. High and outgoing.

Life has been busy busy lately. I’d stayed out of the water last week as it was pouring rain and the water was filthy. This week I was slammed with work. I finally had to just stop, take a day off and recover. I got enough done to be able to sneak out for a morning surf. With the time change and my 10am meeting, it was a short and slightly rushed session, but I got some fun waves and I got to feel a little more like myself.

Hoping things will get a little more manageable, soon.

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Stoked guy

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Surf: 6.9 ft at 13.8 s from the WSW at 248°. Outgoing.

This morning was closed out and funks, but boy was this bodyboarder excited to get out there. He was hooting and skipping down the beach. I hope he had a blast out there.

I surfed like a bit of a mess today, but still managed to make a few waves work. It was a funny mix of totally blowing takeoffs and getting some fun high lines before waves whomped shut. I think everyone was happy to have one more day of surf before the big rains come.