Surf: 10.8 ft at 19.0 s from the W at 277°. Low tide. NW Winds.
The swell that was teasing us yesterday is here, but with a lot of NW wind off the coast. They’ll still run the big contest, but they’ll have to do it with some lumpy waves. I made a few funky rides into full on waves, but after 6 days of surf, I was beat. I hung out on the beach for a while and heard everybody’s stories about that one time, that one year, way back when you could just ride your bike to the cliff at Maverick’s and watch those legends do their thing. Back before it was a circus. Good luck out there, competitors.