Surf: 4.9 ft at 10.8 s from the WNW at 287°. Incoming tide. Offshore.
Today was the first time in a while we’ve had a mellow, small surf day. It was nice to be able to hit up my favorite peaks on the north side and even better not to get completely wrecked doing it.
I kicked the session off with a really great wave. Chris said “all you” and man was I stoked he gave me that wave. I got way way up on the nose. I got a big oll swoosh in. So nice to be back on my longboard.
Even with all the extra foam, I was still exhausted. These long stretches without surf have me so out of shape. I had plenty of fun and my arms were noodles in no time. More surf, less colds and morning meetings, please.