Month: December 2015

Surf: 6.9 ft at 16.0 s from the WNW at 287°

It was a little smaller this morning, but still plenty fun. I tried another spot instead of my favorite spot. More people but I still got plenty of rides. It took a while to get into rhythm. My first wave I popped up, slipped, landed nearly face first on the board, popped up again and finished the ride out. Whew. 

Seems like I may need to buy some more cold water wax. I’ve been surfing with cool wax because my body heat is melting the cold. Unfortunately cool wax in cold weather is slippery as all get out. Looks like I can either fall on my face, or just deal with a few mushy patches wher the wax got warm.

Beautiful sunrise this morning with dramatic clouds. My last wave a guy dropped in on me. He was sure tearing it up and I would have let the wave go once he hopped on, but I really wanted one in. Thankfully we were both good sports about it and had a could laugh when we were back on land. 

Surf: 5ft at 20s from the W at 271°

Fun, chilly morning out there. Chris, Debbie, and I had my favorite little corner all to ourselves. It was very fortunate becasue I’d taken the Hull out and it’s much easier for me to pick off the inside waves when it’s only me on the inside. I shared a few waves with Chris, but mostly wiggled my way up and down a few faces. Sure was chilly! With the handful of winter storms we’ve had so far, the beach is mostly rocks and it was quite the challenge to scramble across them with my cold toes. Still, pretty fun morning. 😀

Surf: 6.6 ft at 17.4 s from the W at 274°. Windy.

It’s been a while since I’ve done the “before the storm, howling south winds” surf. Ooooh hooo hooo, my face is stinging. We took our friend Seth out with us since the surf was small. He managed to get a wave, even with the offshores so fierce I got blown right back out of a few waves.

With the exception of my board scraping across the parking lot when I tried to suit up (I even waited till the last possible minute to get it out of the bag just in case and it still got scraped!) it was a fun little morning. A little less tide and it’d have been perfect. With all these winter storms on the way, there should be plenty of chances to get the right howling winds with the right tide.

Surf: 4.6 ft at 13.8 s from the WNW at 300°

Rainbow! 😀 😀 😀

Seriously, what a great way to start the morning.

Surfwise, the morning was pretty fun. I had very low expectations. Chris went out the day before and said it was big, cold, and miserable. He broke a leash plug in that slow. I was pretty releaves to see mushy, but pretty peak-like waves. It was a little challenging to catch the waves with the tide kind of high, but otherwise fun.