Month: November 2015

Posted on

Incoming Swell

2015-LM-11-29a

2015-LM-11-29b

Surf: 5.6 ft at 21.1 s from the WNW at 283°. Outgoing tide.

I got up this morning, looked at the cams and buoys and thought: “maybe it’s still small and friendly. Maybe that big giant swell isn’t here just yet.”

By the time I got my act together and got down there, all the small and friendly waves were gone and the big new swell was moving in. With the hide tide it was whomping close to shore, but all around not completely unrideable. I got a few waves in, even with my sore shoulder.

Really nice to see everyone’s weekend photos from Ocean Beach. Wow, was that pretty. Way outta my leauge, but so pretty.

Posted on

Smaller, still funky

2015-LM-11-20.jpg

Surf: 4.3 ft at 10.0 s from the WNW at 289°

Wow, the swell really dropped. Things were a little smaller and a little slower, but still not too bad. More opportunities to work on my steps. Nice morening though. Glad to get some exercise in. I think I’ll be too busy next week to surf, so of course, I bet the surf will be amazing.

Posted on

Foggy and Funky

2015-LM-11-19.jpg

Surf: 7.2 ft at 10.8 s from the WNW at 290°

Lots of pink fog this morning with the sunrise and the cool air. The waves weren’t much better, but I made the most of it. I hit up the same little spot and had a lot of fun. I swished through some fast sections and worked on getting as far up as I could, even though the wave was just going to dump me. Not too bad.

Posted on

Funky closeouts

2015-LM-11-18.jpg

Surf: 5.6 ft at 12.9 s from the WNW at 297°

Yeah, it was a little funky and a little closed out today, but, there were a couple little corners that were working, given enough patience. Chris headed upbeach, but I wasn’t feeling the crowd and found a spot downbeach that was working just fine. I managed to work a couple waves and a couple steps out of the mess. Pretty fun!

Posted on

High Tide

 
 Surf: 12ft @ 16s from the NW at 314°. Incoming/high tide. Light winds.

We headed north for a few waves today. I was kind of slow to get going this morning so we didn’t get the “right” tide, but we did get some fun waves. Sloshing off the ramp, I headed left instead of the usual right. The tide seemed too high there and, since I haven’t surfed the left side in ages, left side it was!

The left breaking waves was a bit mobbed. I got one fun one and then thought hmm, maybe I’ll try another spot. I wound up on an uncrowded peak that was plenty fun and more on the peppy side that the whomping side. I had a couple really fun ones where the wave started steep, swooped through some sections, then the last long wall I stepped way up to the front to ride it out. I tried to get all the way on the nose and my foot slipped right off. Faceplant!

Posted on

Back

Surf: 4ft @ 11s from the WNW at 301°, incoming.

I feel like every time I get back into a good groove, something happens and I’m out of my surfing groove again.

The upside is that, when I am able to get back in the water, if feels almost like I never left.

I’m not feeling great so I skipped the crowd and took a small, inconsistent peak. It was perfect. I got some steps in, I did some swooshing, and I didn’t have to work very hard to enjoy myself. Not bad. Now if I can just do it three more times this week, and next week, and the week after… maybe I can say I’m back for good.

Posted on

Bodysurf

Surf: 5.9 ft at 16.0 s from the W at 272°. Low, incoming.

My shoulder was hurting and the surf was closed out. Perfect for bodysurfing!

Saw a few familiar faces in the water, went over the falls backwards, and got lots of long rides. Fun stuff.