Month: October 2015

Posted on

Fog

 

Surf: 7.2 ft at 14.8 s from the WNW at 293°

The forecast and buoys were showing a lot of energy in the water. The thick fog was showing no clues as to wether or not that energy had arrived. I opted for the one part of the beach I could see. There were some long lulls like it was a big swell, but for the most part, it was reasonably sized. I saw Chris getting some nice ones on the next peak over. My peak had a few zippy ones. Plenty of closeouts. All we need are some sand bars and we should be set for some fun this winter.

Posted on

Work

 
Surf: 4ft @ 9s from the W at 276°

High tide, more swell, more wind all add up to more work. Still a few fun ones out there, but a lot more closed out and a lot more paddling. Hopefully days like this will get me back in fall shape. 

Posted on

Inside section 

 
Surf: 4′ @ 9s from the W at 275°. Outgoing. Light offshore. 

I had low expectations for the morning. Paddled out to find a fun little right. It took a fair amount of speed to make the steep inside section so no cross stepping practice today. It was all drop, turn, and swoosh along a good high line. I had a couple so steep it felt like only the smallest edge of the rail was holding on. Whew! 

Great foggy sunrise this morning, too. Light fog all around the little cove. Lovely!

Posted on

Windy Bo

2015-BO-10-18

Surf: 5.3 ft at 13.8 s from the WSW at 256°. Incoming tide. Windy.

I made it back up north despite fighting off a cold. I thought surfing while sniffling could either go well and I get a nice sinus wash, or poorly and I’d be miserable for the rest of the day. Thankfully it was somewhere in the middle. I tried not to overdo it out there (although on a day like today it’s more chasing waves than surfing waves) and snoozed in the afternoon to shake off the rest of feeling lousy.

I did manage to get a good wave or two out there. It was breezy so lefts were really all that were available. It was lumpy, so there was lots of paddling after nothing.

Still, nice to get some fresh air.

Posted on

Waving Sea Lion

2015-LM-10-16

Surf: 3.9 ft at 11.4 s from the WSW at 254°. Incoming tide.

The surf really came down from Tuesday. There were dribbly, shallow waves and not much else. I couldn’t tell if it was my sore back or having surfed my 6’10 earlier in the week, but I was surfing pretty terribly. While floating around, blowing waves, I saw a sea lion rolling on it’s back, waving a flipper at me. Hiya!

Eventually I got a wave in that was slightly competent and figured ehh probably good enough.

Posted on

Hull Closeouts

2015-LM-10-14a

2015-LM-10-14b

Surf: 5.9 ft at 12.1 s from the NW at 304°. Incoming.

I’ve been looking for an excuse to take my hull out for a while. I figured there might be some size and was hoping my usual spot would have some waves on offer. Oddly enough, it didn’t. There was a choice of large closeouts and small closeouts. I went with the small ones and was able to work out a wave here and there with my 6’10. I was mostly relieved I still know how to ride it. I even got in a fancy (but mostly accidental) cutback with some spray.

Posted on

Lumpy Bo

2015-BO-10-11

Surf: 8.9 ft at 13.8 s from the W at 259°. Outgoing.

Hit Bo on the way back down from my wineapalooza weekend. I knew they swell would be dropping (it was supposed to peak the day before) but hoped for some waves. There was some size out there for sure, along with some lumps and doubling mush. It was pretty exhausting chasing down waves but wow, the ones that worked really worked! Chris got a great swooping right that looked like a blast. It broke his leash, but I think it was worth it.

I surfed and surfed and surfed and surf until I was completely exhausted. Great end to the weekend 😀

Posted on

Just right Bo

2015-BO-10-08a

2015-BO-10-08b

Surf: 2.6 ft at 14.8 s from the SSW at 194°. Outgoing tide.

I’m headed up north for a wine-and-fancy-eating weekend with some friends. In the spirit of luxury, I took the morning off and headed to Bolinas. It’s just the beginning of the south swell so there were friendly waves. It was also middle of the day on a Thursday so there weren’t many folks out, either.

I had a blast. My arms were noodles after hours of catching fun peeling waves. It kept getting better, too. A few larger waves would show up, the tide would get a little lower. It was a great afternoon. Heading up to Hog Island for oysters and a picnic wasn’t too shabby either. 😀

Posted on

Small again

 
Surf: 2ft @ 15s from the WSW at 232°. High tide. 

That swell sure dropped fast! 

I rolled up in the dark and could see just a few glassy ripples. Paddling out, I could just barely make out waves. Thankfully there were a few out there. With a little patience, I was able to get some nice peeling waves and shuffle way up the nose. Chris swooshed his way through all the little sections. It was pretty fun. Seems like small summer waves aren’t over just yet. 

Posted on

Sunday

Surf: 6.2 ft at 10.8 s from the NW at 314°. Incoming tide.

Still plenty of swell and it was even a little less closed out. My favorite spot was a zoo of grumpy people so I didn’t get the same cruising fun as yesterday. With more peaks to choose from, it was easy to move north and find somewhere new. Had a pretty fun morning, but man, my shoulders and neck are a mess after this weekend’s run of surf. I’m not sure if it’s tension from the size and from the crowds, or if I’m just sore. Oooch. Might take tomorrow off jus in case.