Surf: 1.6 ft at 16.7 s from the SSW at 212°.
Met up with Jon and his family to surf this afternoon. I hauled the Tuxedo pig (pictured below) down to the beach to try it out. As we were getting into the water, Jon’s wife said “Someone mentioned something about seeing a shark. Let Jon know when you get out there, please.”
I paddled out and let him know. We shrugged. These vintage and vintage style boards are heavy. It’s a long walk down from the cliff and I didn’t want to skip out on the waves because of a rumor.
The Tuxedo pig was fun. It’s definitely heavy and I was doing a lot of work to swing it around and keep it under control going leashless. I got a couple fun waves before swapping it for the Feral Pig CG was riding.
Just after getting my first wave on the Feral Pig, a helicopter buzzed us shouting over the loudspeaker. Now, helicopters are loud, and the ocean is loud, and while we didn’t understand all of what they were saying, we did get the message of “MULTIPLE GREAT WHITES” and I can’t image we needed to know more than that.
Of course, I’d only gotten ONE wave on the feral pig, so I didn’t go in right away. I got another wave. That board is fascinating. It’s big and heavy, but surfs like it isn’t. It has the flow-thru D fin, but is smooth and buttery. Basically the board did all the work. It caught the wave, it turned, it made a section, it got a reform, it held steady while I walked up.
I lost it trying to kick out of the wave. In the course of me swimming after it, I bumped some kelp and shrieked. I decided that it might be time to go in.
It glassed off really nice in the evening, but I was still spooked. Glad other folks scored the sunset waves.
