Surf: 6.9 ft at 8.3 s from the WNW at 292°
What a day! I had a rehab workout in the morning, hiked 6 miles, then jumped in the ocean to cool off. The surf was pretty lousy, but not totally unrideable. It’s been a couple months since my last sunset surf. It was nice to get a few evening waves, even if they were lumpy and bumpy.
Happy and exhausted.
Surf: 5.6 ft at 11.4 s from the W at 271°. Windy.
Well, it’s spring, that’s for sure. Windy, sloppy, and a little hard to get motivated.
My friend Brien busted his face all up in a surf accident a few weeks ago. While he’s recovering, he offered to snap some photos on the beach.
The waves weren’t exactly photogenic, but it wasn’t totally unsurfable. Lots of zipping into and out of closeouts. Here’s a few snaps:
Surf: 6.9 ft at 12.9 s from the WNW at 288°. Incoming.
Last week was an off week (really not loving this on/off schedule) so I was itching to get out this week. Unfortunately the spring winds were up and the waves were closed out. My blue board is dinged so I took my hull out and was just not really getting in to waves. I got a couple short fast ones. Chris was cruising no problem. I mostly spent my time duck diving. One positive note for the day, there were a few larger closeouts out there. I had a moment where I was scrambling to get out and over but didn’t make it in time. I didn’t freak out, but instead got a good breath and held on. Whew.
Hoping next week will break the on/off pattern.
Surf: 3.6 ft at 14.8 s from the WSW at 257°
In keeping with an on-week, one more day of surf! Today was a little more closed out and definitely more crowded, but workable. Chatted up some folks, soaked up some sun, got in a step move. Can’t beat this March weather. The wind was blowing so hard G had to pull and extra special move to jam the nose down and zip off on a wave. Fun stuff. Seems a little late for a south swell, but as long as some of my favorite corners see a little bit of wrap (or cross swell) and favorable winds, I’m happy.
Surf: 3.6 ft at 16.0 s from the WSW at 241°. Incoming. Offshore.
Yay! I’ve been promising Esther “Small clean waves” for a while only to have meh bleh waves show up. This morning had the right amount of everything. Little waves, offshore winds, hardly anyone out. Couldn’t ask for more!
It was great to catch up with folks and catch lots of little waves. I even managed to get a cross step up with a cross step back. Back has been a really tricky move for me. I can step up, then I shuffle back. This time, I pulled it off. Smooth little waves are pretty much perfect for that kind of thing. 🙂
Surf: 5.9 ft at 8.3 s from the NW at 319°. Incoming.
I’ve been trying to get back in to a good surf rhythm again. So far it’s been 1 week on, 1 week off. I’m not thrilled to have an off week, but the on weeks sure are fun.
The waves were a little sloppy in the morning, but were rideable and eventually cleaned up. My blue board really can make the most out of anything so I found a few corners that shaped up into waves. Sadly I dinged the poor board so it’ll be wrapped up in tape till I can get some tint to do the repairs.
