Surf: 6.9 ft at 14.8 s from the WNW at 290°. Incoming.
Day three of “whatever, shoulders, I’m gonna paddle”
Feeling more sore today. Opted for one side of the beach, hoping for a shorter paddle, but the slosh and the crowd was too much. Managed to get my leash wrapped around my hand trying to keep the board close after a closeout in the crowd. Oww. Upside was it worked, downside is I’ll have an awesomely black middle finger for a week. Rawr.
The other side was much more my speed and paddling to there from the first side didn’t put me any more into the red. Waves were lumpy but every now and then one really lined up. After a few of those, my shoulders were worn out. Got some lunch in Stinson and headed back over the mountains to a beautiful show of clouds over the ocean.
Oh! And a guy in the lot recognized Chris’s Stan Fujii. It used to be his. Pretty neat to find a used board’s former owner. 🙂