Surf: 5.3 ft at 10.0 s from the NW at 307°
Ahh colorful fall mornings and closeouts. Warm winds were blowing which I think was the only thing holding up these waves. Could still sneak in a little bit of a ride. I went for some smaller ones to work on wedging my rail into the face and working out a step. It was fun, but eventually me neck started hurting again so I swapped out my board for fins.
Since I’m trying to be ginger when it comes to my upper body, I had to pull out of a few whompers just before they whomped. These steep waves held up by the wind were otherwise perfect for bodysurfing. I even managed to get a party wave with J-bird. I hadn’t thought about what it was going to be like sharing a wave with someone on a board and, well, it’s kinda scary! I pulled out and let her rock the rest of the wave solo. Hoping to get her into a pair of fins so we can bodysurf party-wave sometime soon. 🙂