Surf: 1.6 ft at 15.4 s from the SSW at 198°. Low tide
Oh man, so excited. I waxed the board up last night before dinner and probably woke up a dozen times thinking “is it time to surf yet?! :D” before finally getting up around 5. Time to surf time to surf!
We were the first people out. Not a soul up or down the beach. In fact, I think those dots in surfapig’s photo are probably us.
I shuffled out (stingrays!) and paddled over to a glassy, but little bit closed out peak. Tide was low, but man, we had every peak all to ourselves, warm water and a new board to try!
First off, this board paddles like a dream. Wow. Even at 9’5 doesn’t feel as big as my 9’4. It’s smooth. It’s not so bulky when trying to punch through white water. It’s really nice! Didn’t try any fancy moved on it just yet, still getting a feel for it but I’m super stoked.
AND I got to wear my neoprene jacket and shorts. Yay for warm water!
