Surf: 2.3 ft at 12.5 s from the SW at 231°
Slept in a little and packed up the van. We decided to take advantage of the Monday-morning status by hitting up Old Man’s.
People down here keep saying the surf is “weird.” I haven’t figured out exactly what that means. I guess it’s a little windy? It’s still plenty surfable and I’m happy to have it.
After having waves pretty much to ourselves all weekend, it was a little adjustment to being around so many people. It all worked out. I rode some bumpy waves through the crowd and made some little ones work all the way to the beach.
Not a ton of stepping on this trip. I guess I’m still getting used to the board? Not quite confident enough to really walk. Still, this has been a blast. I saw Chris get great waves, I saw folks from the luau get great waves, and I got so many waves. Fun fun fun.
We washed off, packed the boards, and headed back north. Had a lovely dinner on the way back up and saw an amazing sunset.
YAY road trip 😀