Surf: 1.6 ft at 15.4 s from the S at 185°
More surf! More sun! 😀 Little more wind…but still fun!
I’m loving this board. I’m surfing my arms into jelly (and hiking my legs into mush) but loving this board and this trip. Yeah, there’s some wind, but it’s so nice to be able to just get out and surf.
Went to be at sundown. I was too beat to stay up and chat. Zzz.
Surf: 1.6 ft at 15.4 s from the S at 191°
Back down the cliffs for more waves! 😀
If there’s one thing I love to do on little surf trips, it’s surf the ENTIRE time. And when I’m not surfing, eating or napping works too. Chris is on a mission to try ALL of Mike’s pigs, which aligns very well with my “Always be surfing” mission.
Mike’s boards are amazing. I was too chicken to try any of them, but very stoked to watch Chris surf them all. Wow. Maybe next year I’ll have the guts to take them out (plus the arm power to get those beastly boards up and down the cliff.)
Got to try out my Seea surf leggings today. Love them. There will be a review later.
Chris also got a lovely little video of me surfing. Wheee. Just a quick fun little one. I almost blew it. I’m pretty sure that happens almost every time the camera is on me ad about half the time when it’s not. 😉
We got back up just about the time the pig roast was kicking off. I was so beat I totally missed that that was what was happening, went back to the van and napped. Oops.
Goals for next year: ride pigs, eat pigs, be more social.
Surf: 1.6 ft at 15.4 s from the SSW at 198°. Low tide
Oh man, so excited. I waxed the board up last night before dinner and probably woke up a dozen times thinking “is it time to surf yet?! :D” before finally getting up around 5. Time to surf time to surf!
We were the first people out. Not a soul up or down the beach. In fact, I think those dots in surfapig’s photo are probably us.
I shuffled out (stingrays!) and paddled over to a glassy, but little bit closed out peak. Tide was low, but man, we had every peak all to ourselves, warm water and a new board to try!
First off, this board paddles like a dream. Wow. Even at 9’5 doesn’t feel as big as my 9’4. It’s smooth. It’s not so bulky when trying to punch through white water. It’s really nice! Didn’t try any fancy moved on it just yet, still getting a feel for it but I’m super stoked.
AND I got to wear my neoprene jacket and shorts. Yay for warm water!
