Surf: 7.9 ft at 14.8 s from the W at 279°
Hooo. Crowded out there today. I’m not sure I’ve seen so many beginner shortboarders trying to get in to shallow water closeouts.
With the longboard I was able to squeeze plenty of rides out of the whompfest, but not without a face full of sand and silt here and there. Plus banging around into my board.
Around the end of the session there was a moment when there wasn’t a single wave in sight. Everything turned into a mixed up wash. Huh. I tried to belly in but there were just so many people in thigh deep water on the inside. Oookay. I suppose you could surf there if you really wanted.
Paddled up a little further to an empty spot to take one in.