Surf: 12.5 ft at 14.8 s from the WNW at 298°
Solo surf mission this morning.
Took the hull out in SC for some super super fun ones. This has to be my favorite spot when the surf gets to be around chest to shoulder high. It was perfect for the hull. Most folks were at the larger point so I got wave after wave pretty much uninterrupted.
Today was all about hull-cutbacks. I tried to find myself on the cams to see if I could get another view of what it was I was doing, but sadly I couldn’t spot myself. It felt like I was rolling more on the middle belly and tail to keep myself in the pocket. Hulls don’t really “turn” the same way other boards do and I haven’t learned the BIG drawn out cutback people do on them. Any progress in being able to stay in the pocket rather than totally outrunning the wave is fine by me.
Last wave I got around section after section and pretty much hopped off my board on to the sand. Guy paddling in near me said “well, that seems like a good one to end on.” Pretty stoked.
Hull cutbacks can be graceful if you know how to do it: