Surf: 3.0 ft at 12.9 s from the WSW at 256°
This winter has been plenty of those big, east wind, bright sun days with hardly a south wind rainy surf in sight. The drought finally let up with this latest rainstorm. I snuck out to get a few waves before the real rain started and the water mucked up.
Smooth grey waves and hardly anyone out. I couldn’t have asked for a better morning.
Today was one of those days where I feel like I actually do know how to surf. I took out the log knowing it would be a small wave day and got just the swoopingiest fastest smoothest rides. 😀 Fun fun.
I couldn’t resist taking a peek at the cams later. Here’s me working on a heelside cross step on a little wave. Wheeee.
