Surf: 3.3 ft at 11.4 s from the W at 268°
Had a lot of hope after the weekend surf…but no. Another frustrating session. Uff.
Surf was real wedgey today, closed out too. I dunno, it just wasn’t working for me. I got a wave, but mostly paddled around feeling in the way. Really fun watching Eduardo and all the body boarders getting some nice rides. Holy crap. That looked fun!
Surf: 2.6 ft at 8.3 s from the WNW at 296°
Got a text from Tim after the morning surf saying he was paddling out further north. I was still in my wetsuit so figured, why the hell not?
Sure I was totally exhausted, and the first 45 min or so was steep closeouts (not super fun on the hull), but man am I glad I went back out. I eventually got some fun ones when the tide started heading back out. It’s nice to know that surfing that hull at ocean beach is possible. I’d given up after the last round of faceplants, but hey, there was some change for swish in all that whomp.
I swapped boards with Tim for a bit. He managed to get barreled on my hull. I didn’t scratch into anything on his 5’8. Nice watching someone surf my board well.
After wearing myself totally out, slammed some wings and pizza at Pizza Place. Nom. Good day.
Surf: 3.0 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 289°
Took the hull out this morning since the waves were supposed to be small. Good thing, too, it was small, soft, and crowded. Having an extra half foot came in handy. I got one nice, long swooping left, but after that all the waves were short, crowded mushouts.
After a lot of floating around, we switched to bodysurfing the shorebreak. That was FUN, and dangerous, holy smokes. People were surfing the shorebreak, so some waves were a little too much party. All and all, not bad for total chaos.
Surf: 3.3 ft at 11.4 s from the W at 266°
Today’s plan was “go back to Linda Mar, keep working on the basics.” I did get some more waves, but I’m still frustrated. I know that I’ve got a lot to learn. I remember when learning my longboard that I pretty much had to celebrate any wave I got, rather than expecting more, but it’s peen pretty hard to keep perspective. I just want to surf! Arg!
Surf: 3.3 ft at 12.9 s from the WNW at 287°
The sunrise was extra beautiful this morning, but man, was I ever frustrated. I thought I had a plan: keep paddling. Sadly I flipped down the face of a few waves before retreating back to my usual “not paddling enough” strategy.” After that it was blown wave after blown wave. I got a little something, but was mostly miserably frustrated. Uff.
