Junky surf

2014-LM-01-10

Surf: 6.9 ft at 12.9 s from the W at 270°. High tide.

The wind is up and the surf is junky, but that’s probably the best I’ve surfed all week. I’m so confused. Maybe I can only surf when the surf is lousy? It’s a possibility.

Got some nice long rides,cutbacks even. Not bad for a pretty junky day.