Day: January 5, 2014

Posted on

PM: Ocean Beach

2014-OBN-01-05a

Surf: 2.6 ft at 8.3 s from the WNW at 296°

Got a text from Tim after the morning surf saying he was paddling out further north. I was still in my wetsuit so figured, why the hell not?

Sure I was totally exhausted, and the first 45 min or so was steep closeouts (not super fun on the hull), but man am I glad I went back out. I eventually got some fun ones when the tide started heading back out. It’s nice to know that surfing that hull at ocean beach is possible. I’d given up after the last round of faceplants, but hey, there was some change for swish in all that whomp.

I swapped boards with Tim for a bit. He managed to get barreled on my hull. I didn’t scratch into anything on his 5’8. Nice watching someone surf my board well.

After wearing myself totally out, slammed some wings and pizza at Pizza Place. Nom. Good day.

Posted on

AM: Linda Mar

2014-LM-01-05

Surf: 3.0 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 289°

Took the hull out this morning since the waves were supposed to be small. Good thing, too, it was small, soft, and crowded. Having an extra half foot came in handy. I got one nice, long swooping left, but after that all the waves were short, crowded mushouts.

After a lot of floating around, we switched to bodysurfing the shorebreak. That was FUN, and dangerous, holy smokes. People were surfing the shorebreak, so some waves were a little too much party. All and all, not bad for total chaos.