Surf: 2.0 ft at 13.3 s from the S at 179°. High Tide.
I’ll admit, checking the surf forecast religiously before this trip, I was worried there’d be no swell. South shore was showing flat. North shore was showing flat (well, alternating flat and like 20ft which I’m not sure I’d even be able to watch without nearly drowning.) So it was a very pleasant surprise to roll up to the break this morning and see waves! Lots of waves! 😀
Lots of people, but lots of waves!
So far I’ve found people to be pretty considerate, there’s enough waves to go around and everyone’s been really friendly. The one thing I did find odd was no one moves. If you’re going for a wave, no one will move out of your line. I think part of that is that the majority of the lineup is way better than the majority of the lineup at home, so it’s expected that you will be skilled enough to go around. Why should people give up their spot when you could avoid them on your own? I’m not sure. It’s a little unnerving watching people paddle for a wave so close together, but didn’t see anyone collide.
It’s so nice to surf warm peaks and really nice to watch other people surf. There are some amazing longboarders out here.
Surfed and surfed and surfed and then got Açaà bowls. 😀