Surf: 4.3 ft at 12.1 s from the NW at 304°
After being frustrated on my fish, I decided to take my log out. All of the forecasts suggested small waves. I should have checked the buoys because it was not small at all. Uff. For the most part, the thrashing wasn’t that bad. Being inside for a few waves I expected to be brutal, wasn’t too bad. I was getting frustrated not really getting any waves. I got a few drops into a closeout, but nothing really fun. Towards the end I got pretty wrecked. I had a wave where I just wasn’t coming up and wasn’t coming up. The big old log was dragging me in the worst part of the inside to get drug in. I had to really stop and remind myself not to gasp and suck in water. Not fun.
I paddled back out, hoping to redeem myself, but wound up dropping on on someone. I figured between being sick and being tired, I should cut myself some slack and head in. Ugg. Not fun. I could really use a win on the surfy front before hawaii. :\