Day: November 23, 2013

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Saturday Evening

2013-HIODH-11-23

Surf: 1.6 ft at 11.1 s from the SW at 233°

Wooohoooohooo. Took the fish out at Diamond Head for an evening session. It was a little harder to navigate the crowd on a smaller board, but man, I got some fun ones. I got one long right where I felt like I did all the right things. Cutback, speed around a section, turn turn turn. 😀 Finally!

Unfortunately I got a little greedy on my last wave in. I was cruising down the line when uh oh, ROCK! I tried to go high around it, but I heard a THUNK as I passed over. Thankfully the board was fine, but the fin popped off. Whoops.

Still, fun last session. I’ll miss you, Hawaii!

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Saturday Morning

2013-HIOHA-11-23

Surf: 2.0 ft at 13.3 s from the NNW at 331°.

Headed back up to the North Shore today. The surf was looking a little mixed up, but man, the weather was amazing. There was a sunshower while we watched Hale’iwa and a beautiful rainbow. Woo.

We drove around a while checking spots before deciding to see if one spot would clean up. It didn’t, but we took a crack at it anyway. Lots of short rides that either doubled up or died out. Not terrible, I’ve surfed worse, but nothing epic.

After we went back to Hale’iwa to watch the surf comp and nap on the beach. The pros really know how to work a wave. Most of those waves were junk, but they still managed to pull off a face where it looked like there was nothing but closeouts. Super fun to watch, but I was out cold after one heat which is pretty much what I do watching the heats online.

2013-HIOCH-11-23