Surf: 6.9 ft at 10.8 s from the NW at 308°. Falling tide. Off/side shore.
The sunrise was beautiful this morning. The crowd at the usual end of the beach was not. Between a strong current and the rest of the beach being pounding closeouts, there was a huge clod of people down there. I tried to stick further north and huck myself into closeouts but MAN. I was having a hard time getting into them. I got one wave, the rest was faceplants or totally misses.
Terribly frustrating. I know I need to commit more and just get clobbered, but uff. It’s one thing to go for it and get a great wave at the risk of getting worked (or get a great wave, then get worked at the end.) It’s another to know the only thing this wave offers is a suckerpunch and still want to launch yourself into it. But hey, maybe it’s better than no waves at all?
I know, right? That’s how I’ve been feeling lately. Need some better waves.
It’s so hard to get motivated to be crushed without at least SOME fun!