Month: October 2013

Surf: 3.9 ft at 8.3 s from the NW at 306°. Falling tide. Light winds.

After a week of some sizeable sloppy waves, it was so nice to have more of the beach to surf and EXTRA nice that the waves were waves and not closeouts! I realize my bar is set pretty low but yeeeewwww. I’ll take it.

Got a few big swooping waves up north by myself for a while. A few fun attempts to work on my longboard tricks in the middle. I’m trying to work my way back up to the kinds of waves I was getting on my longboard before I got clobbered in Santa Cruz. Today was a pretty good start. A few of the waves were quite steep and fast, so I had to really commit.

Overall, plenty fun surf. Pretty wavelike.

Surf: 6.9 ft at 10.8 s from the NW at 308°. Falling tide. Off/side shore.

The sunrise was beautiful this morning. The crowd at the usual end of the beach was not. Between a strong current and the rest of the beach being pounding closeouts, there was a huge clod of people down there. I tried to stick further north and huck myself into closeouts but MAN. I was having a hard time getting into them. I got one wave, the rest was faceplants or totally misses.

Terribly frustrating. I know I need to commit more and just get clobbered, but uff. It’s one thing to go for it and get a great wave at the risk of getting worked (or get a great wave, then get worked at the end.) It’s another to know the only thing this wave offers is a suckerpunch and still want to launch yourself into it. But hey, maybe it’s better than no waves at all?

Surf: 7.9 ft at 10.0 s from the WNW at 296°. Low tide. Offshore.

We woke up super late this morning, but somehow managed to sneak in a surfy session. Most of the beach was closed out and the usual spot was serving up some fairly exciting fast, late drops. Yipe. It was actually really fun. I got a few screaming swooshing air eject rides and some very surprising duck dives where I >didn’t< get steamrolled which was a huge relief. Sometimes the days when the waves seem like they are going to be soul crushing, then aren't, are really fun. All the perceived risk, not so much of the actual risk.

Surf: 9.8 ft at 10.8 s from the WNW at 300°. Outgoing tide.

While I didn’t have the highest hopes for today, I was still a little bummed by how mixed up the surf was. Oh well. I took the hull out and managed to pick of some long, extra wiggly waves. It was pretty fun, for a sloppy session. It helped that only a few people were out. I forgot how hard it is to duckdive that board, I was exhausted after a few waves.

Somehow, both Brien and I managed to cut up our feet. Him on his board, me on a rock. I didn’t even notice mine till we were done making sure he was okay. It’s a big ole scrape, but not too serious.

Surf: 5.3 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 304°.

Still sloppy, but plenty fun this morning! Margit is back from her surf safari in central america. While I didn’t get too many details on the trips certain awesomeness, we did catch a ton of fun, silly waves in the sun. Nice morning. 🙂

Surf: 5.3 ft at 7.1 s from the WNW at 297°.

I get terribly spoiled by Santa Cruz. While it was more crowded, the rides were very long. Today was a little messy and the rides were shorter. It was still plenty fun (messy but fun will be a theme for a while.) Even with the slop, there were still some long rides to be squeezed out of the lemons. Wheeeeeeee.