Photo by Brien
Surf: 3.6 ft at 8.3 s from the NW at 305°, plus 3.3 ft at 12.9 s from the WSW at 247°. High tide.
Got a late start this morning, but was determined to make it out anyway. Wish the fish in the shop I took out my big longboard. Yuff. A few of the waves were breaking just steep enough to make me wish I’d brought another board. Without the fish I’m left unable to duck dive, but with a few exceptions, I was able to keep a hold of that beast.
I got a few long, fun waves with steep inside sections. Otherwise the morning was a little bit soft. I went after a wave, but didn’t quite make it. The guys were just howling. Oh man. I was laughing so hard. Nothing like paddling like a maniac for a wave that fizzles out. Ahh well. Nice to sneak in a few. 🙂