Surf: 7.9 ft at 10.0 s from the WNW at 296°. Low tide. Offshore.
We woke up super late this morning, but somehow managed to sneak in a surfy session. Most of the beach was closed out and the usual spot was serving up some fairly exciting fast, late drops. Yipe. It was actually really fun. I got a few screaming swooshing air eject rides and some very surprising duck dives where I >didn’t< get steamrolled which was a huge relief. Sometimes the days when the waves seem like they are going to be soul crushing, then aren't, are really fun. All the perceived risk, not so much of the actual risk.