Day: October 1, 2013

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Birthday Beach Day – Afternoon

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Surf: 10.8 ft at 14.3 s from the NW at 308°. Low tide to incoming. More wind.

The swell came down in the afternoon, but the surf was plenty fun. I took out my fish to sit further inside with Beamer and Brien on their fishies. Paddling out was a pretty amazing time to realize how completely exhausted I was. Whoops. I managed to sneak in one very long wave that made me very happy. I kept the fish snug in the pocket with lots of fast swooping turns. Managed to hold on to the very end of the wave. So stoked.

Sadly, an older guy on a log was fussing with his board, swung his tail around and put the fin directly into my rail. MAAAAAN. First ding on that board. The guy didn’t even apologize, he paddled off.

I shrugged the whole thing off with some hot tubbing and milkshakes for dinner.

Way too stoked on my wave to be as crushed as I thought I was going to be by the first ding on my baby.

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Birthday Beach Day – Morning

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Surf: 11.8 ft at 15.4 s from the NW at 306°. Incoming tide. Light winds.

Birthday surf is pretty much my favorite excuse to skip out on work and head to the beach. 😀

It was Chris’s birthday yesterday and unfortunately yesterday was full of meetings so today we got up very early and headed south to escape the local winds.

The surf in SC was pretty solid. It had a little texture on it from all the winds out in open water, but otherwise was running just a little bit overhead and lovely. I took my longboard hoping to get a few extra waves in and hoping I could sit further outside for maximum birthday hooting. Of course, I wound up doing what I always do and camping out wide of the peak to get the soft sets that miss first peak.

I got some funnn ones. Big ole longboard swooshes and swoops. What a blast. Everyone else got some nice ones, too! We were out there for about 3 1/2 hours. I was starving by the time we were done.

Headed to Paula’s for some seriously syrupy breakfast. That totally hit the spot. Grabbed a new wetsuit for Chris (finally!) before head headed back north.

Napped on the beach waiting for the tide to change. 😀