Month: October 2013

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Frustrated

2013-LM-10-29a

Surf: 4.6 ft at 11.4 s from the NW at 309°. High tide. Light winds.

Oh MAN. So frustrated today. Waves were a little soft with the tide, but come on. I just couldn’t get going. I managed to pick off some quick-dying shoulders but nothing FUN. Then on top of that, I had more than a few people take off without looking nearly right on top of me. Uff. Ufffff. I think I might need to take my longboard out for the rest of the week. I need a win.

At least there was a friendly note on my car to cheer me up.

2013-LM-10-29b

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Chilly bodysurf

2013-LM-10-27

Surf: 4.3 ft at 9.1 s from the NW at 321°. Windy! Cold!

I was so confident in the mehness of the waves today, I only brought the fins. While freezing cold with the wind, it was pretty fun! Splashed around a while and spent the rest of the day trying to thaw out. Brr.

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Make up surf

2013-OBK-10-26a

Surf: 3.3 ft at 10.8 s from the W at 273°. High tide. Light wind.

That’s more like it. Clean conditions, light wind. Much better. Of course, I was still surfing terribly, but hey, we’re halfway there. I struggled for ages to find a good spot since the waves were a little soft and the crowd was a little tricky. Eventually the tide eased off and I had a better time snagging the inside waves for a few fun rides.

Afterwards did a little sketching.

2013-OBK-10-26b

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Uff

Surf: 3.9 ft at 12.1 s from the WSW at 253°. Windy. Awful.

I was so beat after last night’s concert that I slept in. But hey, I didn’t have work to do any I had my gear at the office, why not try again in the afternoon? Well, I evidently missed all the good stuff. It was windy and terrible and I was just not feeling it. I paddled halfway out, watched someone get a wobbly messy wave, paddled back in, waited a bit, got about halfway out again and said EHHHHHH, I’d rather go home and order pizza. So I did. Shrug.

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More fog

2013-LM-10-23

Surf: 5.3 ft at 16.0 s from the W at 272°. Low tide.

Today was a bit more surfable. Less size, almost like a shoulder here and there. Got lots of waves. Since it was still a little closed out, I spent a few waves trying to see how far up on the rail I can put my fish. It can go pretty far before I fall on my face 😀

Drove around a little checking out other spots. The Devil’s Slide tunnel was doing some cool foggy things, but the surf spots were looking closed out and windy. Too bad.

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Orange fish is back!

2013-LM-10-22

Surf: 5.3 ft at 17.4 s from the W at 270°. Incoming tide.

Got my fish back from Sunset. All patched up and ready for action. Unfortunately, it took me a solid hour or more before I got back into the swing of things. Surf was closed out and pretty solid size. I was not digging it. Eventually the tide came up and I was able to snag a few waves, finally. It was actually really fun once their started being a shoulder to work with. Wheeee. I missed turning.

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Breakfast

2013-OBP-10-21

Buoys: 6.2 ft at 21.1 s from the WNW at 291°

Checked the buoys in the am and they looked like nothing I wanted a piece of, but I did want to go look so I headed down to the beach. Sticker and Carl were already out. We watched them for quite a while. While I love watching folks get big stuff, I got breakfast instead.

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Demo day

2013-OBS-10-19

2013-OBS-10-19b

Surf: 2.0 ft at 6.7 s from the W at 276°.

Hit up a demo at Aqua today. The waves were pretty much non-existant, but hey, always fun to try new boards. Sunny, warm, but crowded, and closed out little waves. Lovely bbq after.

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Bakerfish: Love/Haight

2013-OBP-10-18

Surf: 3.6 ft at 6.2 s from the WNW at 295°, rising tide. Winds at sea.

Today was certainly a change from the rest of the week. Fog. Slop. OMG so many people. Do none of you work on Fridays?! Anyhow, that aside, the Bakerfish evidently doesn’t like slop. It was a frustrating morning trying to get the dang thing moving. That was a pretty quick love affair. One good wave, and a whole morning of mehness. I’d love to try it again sometime, but I’m not sure when we’ll have a sort, clean, small-medium sized day again.

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Bakerfish

2013-OBP-10-16a

2013-OBP-10-16b
Photo by Brien

Surf: 3 ft @ 9 s from the WNW at 296° and 3 ft @ 12 s from the W at 277°. Rising tide.

FINALLY took out the fish Josh N let me borrow ages and ages ago. It’s totally flat, and since he opened with “yeah this the the board that broke my nose,” I wasn’t sure I wanted to take it out. I like that my fish has rocker and concave. This fish has neither 😉

It’s smaller than my fish and a twin keel, so it rides much different. The first wave I got it felt super skatey, which was rad for turning fast, but the first big drop it felt like it was going to squirrel out on me. Thankfully it didn’t, weeeeeeeee. Man that was a fun one.

I was really hoping to get a similar wave front side, but sadly I did not. Maybe friday!