Struggling

2013-LM-09-27

Surf: 5.9 ft at 9.1 s from the WNW at 306°.

We got a late start this morning. Winds were better and waves were significantly cleaner, but it’s the same old story of closeouts into shallow water.I’m really struggling. I know it’s been an ongoing cycle of me getting better, getting lots of waves, getting clobbered, then starting over at zero, but zero is still really frustrating!

Everything I got into, I dug a rail when it got steep, but most waves I just couldn’t get into. It felt like I was in a slow motion clip of awkwardness. Snarl.

Well I got one wave in at least. But sheesh, so demoralizing!

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