Sandblast drops

2013-LM-09-23

Surf: 3.9 ft at 11.4 s from the WNW at 291°. Low tide 2.3+. Light/offshore wind.

I hadn’t planned on surfing this morning, but went out anyway. Things were about what I expected, closed out with occasional size. I got some fun big drops followed by getting just wrecked by the inevitable closeout. One I accidentally got into a nice barrel stance before the hard stop. So much sand in my wetsuit, even with the hood on. Oh man. It came up my arms, up my legs. So much sand.

I would have liked a little more face on today’s waves, but it’s sunny and half decent. I’ll take it.