Monday

2013-OBP-09-16

Surf: 3.3 ft at 14.8 s from the WSW at 242°. Incoming tide. Light winds.

The wind forecast has been all over the place lately. We took a chance on it being wrong and scored some ruffled, mushy, but forgiving morning waves. I heard plenty of “you should have been here yesterday,” but it was fun enough.

The 9’4 > 6’4 switch is still tripping me up. The first hour and a half I was struggling. Switching between the two I’m in the wrong spot or I blow my takeoffs. Eventually, I managed to sneak one in and finally get into a little bit of a groove.

I had two nice long ones (with some turns, whew) and quite a few drop and mush waves. Managed to get a nice long inside wave all the way in to the beach. Lots of work to keep that little wave going. Hop hop hop. Pretty fun kooky morning.