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2013-LM-09-19

Surf: 5.6 ft at 10.0 s from the WNW at 294°. Slightly offshore.

Winds were light again this morning and the waves were looking fairly clean. There were plenty of closeouts, but all around, things were looking fun.

I got a few okay ones, but on one I just got swallowed by the wave on the inside. I haven’t had a wipeout like that in a while. I got clobbered, went over the falls a couple of times, bounced off the sand, and got drug for long than I would have liked. After that, I want back to being scaredy cat and didn’t get another waves. Sigh. Made some progress, lost some progress.

On the upside, I didn’t get clobbered by incoming waves, which is a nice change of pace.

Chris got some great ones.

I was a little chilly in my beat up old suit. It might finally be a “summer suit.” Poor thing. I might need to upgrade my backup before it really gets cold.