Surf: 5.9 ft at 8.3 s from the WNW at 284°. Light, occasionally offshore winds.
I’d written today off given how windy it was yesterday. Fortunately I woke up early and checked the winds. They looked reasonable (and almost favorable) so I headed out.
Things were a lot more organized, not too much cleaner, but fun! I’m getting a little better and getting into closeouts. After the big bad beatdown winter, I haven’t taken as many chances on waves. Some days all there is is drop and wash, so it’s been something I’ve been trying to get back into doing (as safely as possible.)
I got a few decent ones. I’m digging this whole snappiness thing. I don’t really know how to describe it, but since I can climb and drop faster, I feel like I’m getting a little more action in before the wave closes out and, when my timing is right) I’m getting in a good spot to straighten out when the wave finally closes out.
Maybe it’s my fear of snapping my longboard (or getting clobbered by it), but I don’t tend to climb when it’s on the more closed out side and I’m usually trying to figure out how to straighten out earlier or how to plow through a section using the weight of the board to get the last little bit out of the wave.
While I won’t say one is better than the other (I was totally jealous watching Chris grab the outside waves I couldn’t get into), it’s certainly been fun learning something new.