Surf: 2.3 ft at 14.8 s from 286° plus a 2.0 ft at 13.8 s from 221°. Moderate wind. Incoming tide.
More swell, but more chop. Then both MORE swell and more chop. Holy crap the more swell.
Here’s me, minding my own business trying to make something out of chest high funky waves when suddenly OMG that’s a much much bigger set. AAAAA paddle for my life. I’m pretty sure Ocean Beach loves to do that to me. Especially if I’ve just blown taking off on the first wave of the set and the next three are snarling. I’m assuming it’s the two long-ish period swells overlapping. Perhaps a couple sets both hit at just the right time to turn little slop into pissed off sets. Ooof. It’s been a long time since I had to walk though my whole “this is going to suck” headgame. I have to say, I kinda freaked out a lil. Sigh.
I did manage to sneak a little fun. I got a couple of long ones. I worked on my swooping quad turns. Fun fun.
Highlight of the day: a whole pod of dolphins when past Chris and Brien inside a wave. I was further out, so I only saw 3 fins surface just in front of Chris’s board. Amazing.
