Surf: 3 ft at 16 s from the SSW at 196° rising tide. Light wind.
With a new swell coming after a long dry spell, I knew Santa Cruz would be crowded.
Most of the folks out at 38th were floating around, chatting, so it was pretty easy to pick off waves other people were letting roll past. Still, there were a few close calls when party waves got a little too crowded. For the most part, there were plenty of long rides.
I was starting to feel like a bit of a wave hog as the day went on. We surfed for four hours. At one point, I got an early wave in a set then picked off a later wave on my way back out. No one had cone for it and I was in exactly the right spot, I just had to do it. After that, I let a few sets go, hoping others would snag a good one.
I tried to work on my noseriding again. I had one or two waves where I got really far up. I’m sure it looked beyond awkward. I tried to find myself on the cams, to confirm my inner cringe, but sadly every time I took off on a wave, the camera panned. ARG.
I’m hoping to get some lessons in this year. I want to work on my style and longboarding competence.
The ride back, we went up the coast. Dog out the window. Checking all the surf spots. Sunburned and happy.
