Surf: 5.3 ft at 9.1 s from the NW at 321°. Incoming tide. No wind.
While typically crowded for a warm and sunny holiday, the surf today was surprisingly fun. Nice long faces. Some good size. Warm water warm air warm sun warm sand.
I took out my 7′ quad worrying the crowd might somehow ding my precious orange baby. The extra little bit of length and foam came in handy when trying to out-paddle the weekend warriors, but was a wee bit tricky duck diving the HH+ sets that rolled through from time to time. One particularly amazing botched dive involved the board twisting then swinging around in a perfect arc to hit me in the back of the head. Mid-length’s lack of weight for punching through a wave, and their overly beefiness for diving is probably my main complaint with these boards.
Really my only complaint, as that was pretty dang fun.
I’ve been thinking quite a bit about quad set up vs single fin lately (especially as this board can handle both.) At this length I’m not really feeling the fins like I do on my 6’4. The board is still really fun, I got some big swooping turns in. I got around some sections. It all around surfed.
Saw a few of the usual morning crew out there killing it.
Afterwards, Mike said “Looks like you’re getting pretty good on these mid-lengths!” Aww, yay! 😀
Super stoked to me getting somewhere, especially after months of being frustrated.
After afterwards, caught the illegal fireworks show in the mission from safely up on Potrero Hill. Pew pew.
Happy 4th!
