Surf: 2.3 ft at 14.3 s from the SSW at 213°. Rising tide. No wind.
YAWN.
There’s a BART strike and Chris wanted to beat the bridge traffic by avoiding the bridge all together. Unfortunately we all had time constraints so “get there EARLY” was the call.
I got up at 3:15, picked up Brien at 4, rolled up to the beach at 5:15 for some serious darkness.
Darkness, and waves. Clean tasty waves.
Yeah there were some long lulls, but it was clean and there were some nice sized sets. Waves were nice and long, perfect for working on my nose ride skills. I got in range, but every time I started to get up there, I’d lose speed like crazy. A few things I think were happening:
– 1 I’m a little too far ahead of the curl. I need to get in position a little better
– 2 Not enough rail/tail engaged in the face. Chris was recommending leaning down-face a little to keep the nose sliding forward.
– 3 My board is more of an all-arounder. It doesn’t have a ton of concave in the nose.
It should still be rideable, but a little bit more tricky.
In addition to the fun waist high practice waves, there were a few good sized chest+ waves in the mix. I got two great rides I was very happy about. One with a mix of turns, long cutbacks, skootching up, dropping back etc and one last set wave in. I was about to paddle over one of the waves in the set, but then changed my mind last minute. After a no-paddle take off, it was a fast, fun long ride all the way into the sand. Wow, was that a FUN one. Yeeeeeooooo.
What a beautiful morning. Big group of pelicans cruised by before disappearing into the fog.
