Surf: 4.6 ft at 12.1 s from the W at 269°. Calm – light WSW winds. Dropping to negative tide.
Wooohooohooo ooo.
The forecast sounded pretty mediocre and the cams weren’t helping. After last week, I figured I’d find something rideable. After yesterday, I figured it would be closeouts. I took my fish thinking at bare minimum I wouldn’t get quite so clobbered and I might get a couple half second closeout rides.
Thankfully, the surf turned out to be pretty fun.
I got a few short rides, a few longer okay rides, a few rides where I faceplanted trying to cut back (I’m still figuring out this whole “more than one fin” thing), and then one ride that counts as my most competent wave so far on the fish at Linda Mar.
I got a GREAT wave in Santa Cruz, but conditions were so good that day, it was the wave and the board doing all the work. I’d be happy to have a million more waves like that, sure, but today’s wave made me feel like I was starting to learn a few things.
The key things being that I got my weight right (I keep being too far forward, too far back), used the rail nicely (you know, to go forward instead of standing there), used my fins well for my turns (I could use a little more work here but still excited to be doing turns at all), and got nice smooth glide though the sections.
All and all, pretty satisfied.
<3 Fish!