Surf: 3.9 ft at 7.1 s from the W at 279°
This week has been a return to my surfing roots: making the most of terrible waves. These sessions are all about positioning, patience, and making unmakeable sections.
It’s been mixed up, choppy, and all around messy. These are the kinds of waves I started out surfing on. Since it’s been a desperate month with too much time out of the water, I’ve been willing to give it a shot.
These are great skill building conditions. It’s one thing to catch a clean perfect wave, it’s another to really work to make slop into a wave.