Surf: Glassy, waist to chest high
This morning’s surf looked a little crowded and by midday I was wrangling requests for work, so evening’s was the only shot.
After seeing myself on camera yesterday, I’ve realized a few things.
1- My stance is pretty comical. I need to square off my hips.
2- I could stand up a little taller, that might put more swing in my swoosh.
3- Better wave position. I managed to stay pretty well in the pocket last night on the longboard, but with the hull it’s a little more critical.
I set out with that in mind. The first few waves I was focusing more on squaring my hips than setting my rail, but once I got the hang of it, I got in some pretty good hull swishes and swoops. I made a few sections I didn’t expect to make.
I can do a lot more than I think I can, maybe not with style yet, but there’s plenty I can do if I keep trying.