Surf: Waist high and a little windblown.
Ed showed up with his camera gear to get some shots of Beamer. I headed back out with my fish and rashguard and bikini combo. a few duckdives in, I was not feeling very confident in my bikini bottoms. Walking back to the house to change into my supersuit, I couldn’t help but think about boards.
The one problem with bringing two boards is you still can only surf one board at a time.
I knew if I switched to the hull, I’d get more waves given the conditions…but I really wanted some shots of my on the fish. From a vanity perspective: OMG I made this board, I want shots of me ripping on it! From a reality perspective: I want to see how horrible I surf my fish so I can fix it.
Sure enough, Ed got shot after shot after shot of me missing waves. I’m so close, then at the last minute I’m just not getting it. I need more paddle and more weight on the front. It’s plenty mushy out here so I need extra “more paddle” and extra “more weight.” While I might not get the fish figured out this trip, I’ll keep all of this in mind for when I get home.
The other thing I saw from the footage was something that I can’t quite explain. Either it’s an optical illusion from the shot angle or it was actually happening, but it sure looked like I was surfing sideways. With my hull that’s supposed to happen, but I’m pretty sure with a concave bottom there’s no crazy slide allowed. That whole ride I felt stuck in the wave. I think I need more weight over my front foot and better rail engagement.
All around I think it was a frustrating session for everyone. Beamer didn’t get the shots he was hoping for and I didn’t get waves. But hey, water’s warm. Missing waves hurts a heck of a lot more when it’s cold.
As it’s been every day, the surf picked up again in the evening.
