Surf: Glassy and small.
The surf looked so good last night, I was surprised to find it to be smaller in the morning. Ahh well. I’ve been hearing it’s flat back home so I’m happy just to have something clean and surfable.
Went out for some fun long cruising waves on the hull.
Man, the weather’s just perfect out here. I’ll take it.
Surf: Cobblestone, soft, waist to shoulder high.
We started out the morning one one boat checking one of my favorite spots, but sadly the break was flat. I’m sure if we waited long enough, there would be a set, but at 30 min or more apart, it’s a big risk.
We headed back, then drove over an hour to another boat. This time it was breaking.
This is a beautiful spot and we were fortunate to have it all to ourselves. On a normal day, it’s supposedly packed. Shallow, rocky, and urchin covered, I imagine it’s pretty intimidating with any kind of crowd or with real size. I had a few takeoffs I wasn’t so sure I could clear the rocks and this was a pretty easy day.
I’d brought my hull expecting we’d be going to the right hand boat spot and not the left, but the hull worked just fine. I know people say hulls aren’t supposed to surf well backside, but for me they surf the same as any other board. I guess I’m not really doing anything fancy anyway, so it doesn’t feel that odd? Not sure.
The ride back was tricky. I was nodding off and I’m sure it had to be rough for Ed driving with all of us asleep. When we got back to the house, the surf was looking really nice. I was too fried and tired to get on it. I know they say never walk away from a good wave, but man… I was so beat.
I’ve also been getting demolished by mosquitos this trip so I busted out the mosquito net. I’m not sure it really helped, but hey, it adds a little flair to vacation sleeping.
I took the fish out for a sunset session. I think it’s conditions, but I feel like I’m less capable on the fish than I’ve been surfing it in SF. I’m not getting the weight right or the rail right. Something’s not quite right.
It also might be that switching between the hull (glide machine) and the fish (only a little glidey) makes the fish feel like it’s in slow motion.
Complaining about not knowing what I’m doing aside, I did have some really fun rides on the fish this evening. Every now and then I get a run where I catch most of the waves I’m going for (instead of missing them) and I’m starting to get more of the cruising pump down. It’s really fun to turn quicker. The waves aren’t exactly right down here, but it’s really fun to try.
Surf: Knee to Waist High. Little ruffled but plenty nice.
I took my fish out to try and get a little bit of time in on it. My rides were pretty short. I’m not sure if it’s the waves, or just me. I’m pretty sure there’s a big “me” factor in there.
I’m also missing so many waves. Beamer got a great shot by shot of what happens. Keep in mind that while it doesn’t look like I’m paddling, I am (just not enough.) I’ll be set up properly, but then I don’t quite get in and wind up watching the wave roll on by. Sad. Ahh well. Practice practice practice.
The mid-day winds came up. I decided to re-wax the fish in the shade. I really should have stripped both boards before flying, but laziness won out. After watching all my wax flake off into the ocean, I decided to do the right thing and clean up.
Surf: A little more windblown, but about the same.
Pretty much more YAY. Fun cruisey evening rides on the hull. <3
After surf, we settled down for dinner and a movie. Only two minutes in to Gangs of New York, this guy decided to join us.
This guy is one of only two scorpions I’ve seen in all my trips down here. Unlike the tiny yellow (very poisonous) one we saw the first trip, this big guy did not run away. Beamer poked him with a shoe. He raised his tail and held his ground. We tried to shoo him away, but he was not having it. Sadly, the confrontation ended with the scorpion being squashed and the humans uneasily tiptoeing around the house for the rest of the night.
Surf: Small and clean!
YAY Mexico. Yay Yay Yay.
Yay Mexico!!
Fun morning rides. Pancakes. All the good stuff.
Surf: Windy, waist high.
We’re in Mexico 😀 Wooo.
The surf is a bit windblown, but the water’s warm. I took out my hull, perfect for gliding around chop. Sure it was a little closed out, but it was fun out there.
I traded Beamer my hull for a wavestorm. Those things feel so fast. I have no idea why. Got a good laugh out of it.
Ahh warm water.
The place we’re staying is cute and cozy. Much more jungle than beach, but still charming. Beamer and I stayed out in the water past sunset and saw plenty of little glowing jellys, just like the last trip.
We made dinner, ate ice cream and watched movies. Yay vacation.
Surf: 2.3 ft at 12.9 s from the SSW at 208° Small and kinda clean.
Started out the morning at Ocean Beach. It was windy, small, and all around not inspiring. After kicking some dirty and waiting for a wave, the wind shifted south and we decided to look for a more sheltered spot.
I’d brought my hull hoping to convince myself that my hull was not really all that fun and I shouldn’t take it to Mexico (even though Burros is pretty much the perfect wave for it.)
Linda mar looked small. I thought it would be perfect. I’d struggle and get frustrated and decide that all I need to take is my fish, not my fish AND my hull.
Of course, when you decide something like that, the waves turn out to be super fun. My little hull zipped all around, gliding like crazy, swooping a little. It was silly fun. I got some great long rides.
I wound up walking away from the session knowing I was going to take one heavy board bag to Mexico and that I was going to have a heck of a lot of fun.
Surf: 3.0 ft at 12.9 s from WSW at 245°. Windy.
Sometimes when the surf is less than inspiring, the only thing you can do is swap boards. Brien got a chance trying both Chris’s 10’something” log and my 9’4, Chris got a try at Brien’s 7’4 egg and my board, and I got a try at Brien’s board.
I got some fun rides all around. I also managed to flip myself completely over. Chris got some good ones on Brien’s board, but I think my board falls into the “too similar but too different” window so no love there. Brien got some long ones on Chris’s board, but my board turned out to be a little less intimidating.
Fun party waves all around too. Not bad, but spring conditions for sure.
Surf: 3.3 ft at 16.0 s from the S at 184°
I *almost* got into a lot of waves today. I’m having trouble and I’m missing em. I felt like I was getting lined up right, but I was missing that last elements I needed to get up and go.
I still got a few. They were mostly scraps that felt mushy and slow. I left the set waves for people who wouldn’t totally blow it, so there wasn’t much to work with.
One wave I felt like I was set up right, I paddled, I almost got it, and then I get swept over the falls kicking and screaming. The whole way down I could hear Sticker and Josh howling from the cliffs. The orange board makes me easy to spot. I still think orange was a good color choice. As I’d mentioned to Sticker: Nothing says AAaAAAAAAAA LOOK OUT like international orange.
The surf got better as the tide changed. I didn’t want to leave but I’d gone from getting waves here and there to not getting into anything at all. I figured it was office time before embarrassing myself further. 😉
