Surf: Chest to head high+, pretty clean. 3.3 ft at 14.8s from SW at 215° with a W swell at 3.3 ft at 12.9 s mixed in.
Wooohooohoo. I did not expect actual surfable conditions today. This was quite the fun surprise.
Expecting windblown, jumbled slop, I took out my narrow longboard. Where this board really works well the kind of beach waves that start out mushy, then steepen up. That’s exactly what we found.
From the cliff it was looking clean, but a little bit big on the sets. We gave it a shot.
It was a little warbly here and there, but given what the surf’s been like lately, it was perfect. There was a moment watching a set go by that I watched the first wave roll by, watched the second, then realized a little too late the third was about to break on top of me. I started laughing to hard I could barely get a breath. Ohhh surfing.
One of my best waves today started out pretty unassuming. I paddled for a nice looking one, dropped in, then saw the whole wave stack up. It was over my head for sure. Waves like this are great on this board. It’s got speed and, even though it’s a big board, it turns well on the narrow tail. I swooped through the bottom turn, super fun top turn, second bottom turn and I almost kicked out thinking the wave was going to close but decided to stick with it, swoosh another top turn, another bottom, then it really looked like it was going to close out on me so I launched off the back. Wheeeeee. Oh man that was fun. I haven’t had a wave like that in a long time. Probably since the last time I surfed summer waves here.
Evidently my wave caught the attention of folks on the cliff. Quite a few more people paddled out, including one guy who said my wave saved him from driving all the way to Santa Cruz.
Surfed for a while, then bodysurfed when the fog came in. Oh man, it was exhausting but super fun.
I’m hoping this means summer’s on it’s way. I miss surfing this spot. It can be so fun in the summer and I really want to try my fish out on it.
Went home sunburnt and stoked.